Goochi's India Pics

Here is the link:  

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=c9wkajm8.65yqy7dc&x=0&y=ghml4g&localeid=en_US

Home at last!

Whew! Made it back to the Bay after what seemed like an endless series of flights and layovers (actually it wasn't that bad, but still -- it feels good to be sitting on my couch instead of a plane).

I'm sooo glad to be back, though it does seem a bit surreal to look out my window and not see rickshaws, stray dogs, and paan-wallahs everywhere. Good in some ways, not so good in others. I'm really really really glad I made the trip, especially with partner in crime Goochi -- next time I won't let ten years pass before I visit again!

So, the real question is, has India changed as much as everyone said it had? In some ways, YES, but in others, not really.

The changes I noticed were a lot more consumer-oriented: malls, cell phones, chain restaurants, and, at least in Bombay, a more accepting attitude towards things Western.

The things that felt the same were: staring at "foreigners" in smaller towns, the way most transactions and interactions involve a clear power dynamic, and the sights, sounds, and smells :)

Speaking of sights, I caught a glimpse of one of my favorite Bollywood actors, Aamir Khan, on the street in Lokhandwalla the day before I left. Sumer, the driver, pointed him out as he walked past our parked car. Nobody else seemed to notice him or bat an eye as he walked down the road -- I gawked like a typical Amreekan tourist.

Pictures are up. Enjoy!

Major Ulti*

Hello again. I've returned to Bombay from Mhow, where I had a lovely time, with the exception of a visit from Major Ulti. I was in bed for two days but emerged finally to take in the beautiful surroundings and scenery. Also spent a great deal of time getting to know the area's mosquito population. I met 32 at last count.

Looking forward to my triumphant return to the Bay -- I miss the diversity of faces and cuisines!

Again I'm feeling too lazy to deal with posting pictures, but I will post them all when I get home -- I leave here on Saturday night!

*ulti = vomit

Bean Bags

A curious sight I've noticed is the phrase "bean bags" followed by a phone number, spraypainted on numerous walls and fences around Bombay. What could it be? I thought. A real estate or demolition company (the graffiti always seemed to be on abandoned buildings)? Illicit drug sales? Some street slang?

Turns out to be cheap advertising for some enterprising soul selling -- big surprise -- bean bags. I guess they're very popular here.

Goochi has flown the coop and I'm off to Mhow (kind of in the middle of the country) to visit my aunt and uncle for a few days. Seems like Internet access will be quite limited there, so I doubt I'll be able to post until after I return to Bombay.

A funny "typical India" story from yesterday: Goochi's cell phone had quit working, so we went to the nearest Vodafone shop to check out the problem (I also needed to recharge my units, since I'd blazed through Rs. 500 worth already). Turns out the photo we'd submitted when we signed up was a color copy rather than an original (long story) so the company had cut off her service. When I asked if mine would also be cut off for the same reason, she checked my account and found that it is registered to someone else (totally wrong name and address). I asked if I needed to correct that, lest my account be terminated. "No madam. Your account is already active, so no need to change the name."

But of course!

Return from the South

Well, we've just returned to Bombay from our trip to Pondicherry. It was my first time visiting the South -- it was very different from the other areas I've seen in India, and somewhat more comical (I think it was all the moustaches).

Pondicherry was very beautiful and quaint with all the French touches (our hotel was on Rue de Romain something something). Also unusual were all the Europeans who seem to flock to the Aurobindo ashram, and nearby Auroville, a "perfect community." Very cultish.

Our hotel was also amazing -- it was a restored French villa, and part of the Neemrana chain (Google it). Tres romantique!

I'd like to post pictures but I'm too lazy to figure out how to connect my camera to this computer, so it will have to wait. Goochi leaves tonight for the States, and I'll be here for another week or so.

Au revoir for now!

Goa or Bust

So...bless Sapna's heart for arranging our little Goan getaway. We saw all her old haunts and homes, though this was the off season and things were verrrrry quiet. We had an absolutely hellish bus ride there, which involved blasting air conditioning ("Madam, passengers have paid for AC bus only, so we must leaving it on."), zero sleep, and the nastiest roll of masking tape I've ever seen in my life.

However, once we got to Goa it was very lovely, despite torrential rain our first night. I believe Gootchi has permanently abandoned her sneakers in favor of chappals.

Back in Bombay now and off to Pondy tomorrow.

Ok, Ta-Ta (Horn please)

Bombay 50

Tater-tot and Imran Khan

The view of Marine Drive from Dome

Chetan enjoys dessert at Govinda's

Tater-tot, Gayathiri, and Goochi

A few more days have passed in Bombay -- more shopping, more eating, and a great fillum (Jaane Tu...Ya Jaane Na). One thing I'm loving about the "new" India is the fact that nobody gives a hoot who you are, what you're wearing, or where you're from. It is really liberating. The last time I was here that was definitely not theh case, but the last time I was here I was also with a 5'10" white girl (hi Rob!) so that might have had some impact on the situation.

I think the pollution is getting to Gootchi. She is miserably rubbing her nose and eyes while the exhaust fumes spew over us -- though actually I find the pollution much more bearable than my last visit (and much better than Beijing).

Off to Goa this evening to enjoy the "dead" season -- it will be totally empty right now.